Fowey and Polruan face each other across the mouth of the River Fowey, a deep, sheltered harbour on Cornwall's south coast. Fowey is a pretty, bustling town of narrow streets, independent shops and waterside pubs, while Polruan, on the opposite bank, is a quieter village of steep lanes and boatyards. A tiny ferry links the two, and exploring both, by foot and by boat, makes a perfect day.
Getting there and parking
Fowey's streets are narrow and very busy in summer, so it is best not to drive into the centre. The main car parks are on the edge of town, with a walk or seasonal shuttle into the centre. Check what is running when you visit. Polruan has a car park at the top of the village, with a steep walk down to the quay. You can also reach Fowey across the river from Bodinnick, near Lanteglos, on a small car ferry, which saves a long drive around by road.
Fowey
Fowey (pronounced "Foy") has been a busy port since the Middle Ages, and its harbour is still full of yachts, fishing boats and the occasional large ship heading up river to the china clay docks. The town climbs steeply from the water, with a main street of independent shops, galleries, cafés and pubs. The church of St Fimbarrus, with its tall tower, sits at the heart of the town, and the Town Quay is a lovely spot to sit and watch the harbour.
Daphne du Maurier
Fowey is closely linked with the novelist Daphne du Maurier, who lived nearby for much of her life and drew on the area for books such as Rebecca and Frenchman's Creek. Her family's home, Ferryside, is at Bodinnick, across the river. The town holds a literary and arts festival each year in her honour, the Fowey Festival. Check the dates if you want to plan around it.
The Polruan ferry
A small passenger ferry runs between Fowey and Polruan, taking just a few minutes. The landing point in Fowey changes by season and time of day. In summer it usually goes from Whitehouse Slip, and in the evenings and winter from Town Quay. Check the signs on the quay. Fares are paid on board.
Polruan
Polruan is a working village, with boatyards and narrow lanes that climb steeply from the quay. At the harbour mouth stand the ruins of a 15th-century blockhouse, which once had a twin on the Fowey side. In times of war, a chain could be stretched between them to block the harbour. From the top of the village, the views back over Fowey and out to sea are superb.
The Hall Walk
The Hall Walk is a classic circular walk of around four miles, linking Fowey, Bodinnick and Polruan by two ferries and a wooded path along the creek. It passes a granite memorial to the writer Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch, known as 'Q', and runs above Pont Pill creek, where a footbridge crosses at the head of the creek. Allow two to three hours, and check ferry times so you don't get stranded.
Beaches and boats
From Fowey, a walk south past the Esplanade leads to Readymoney Cove, a small sheltered beach below the ruins of St Catherine's Castle, built in the reign of Henry VIII. Lantic Bay, a beautiful but steep-to-reach beach, is a walk east from Polruan along the coast path. Boat trips, kayak hire and motorboat hire are available in Fowey in season, and are a great way to explore the river and its creeks.
Good to know
- Both Fowey and Polruan are very hilly. Wear comfortable shoes.
- Ferries can stop in bad weather. Check before you rely on them.
- Fowey gets busy in summer, especially during festival and regatta weeks.
- Combine your visit with the Eden Project or the beach at Polkerris, both a short drive away.
Photos: Polruan from Fowey by Josie Campbell, CC BY-SA 2.0; Fowey harbour by Dave Croker, CC BY-SA 2.0; via Wikimedia Commons.
