With its golden beaches, harbour full of fishing boats and maze of cobbled lanes, St Ives is one of the most loved towns in Cornwall. It is famous for its light, which has drawn artists here for well over a century, and it is just as good for a lazy beach day as for an afternoon in the galleries. This guide covers the essentials.
Getting there and parking
The town's narrow streets are not built for cars, and parking in the centre is very limited. A good option is the park and ride: the St Ives branch railway runs from St Erth, with a car park at the station, along a beautiful stretch of coast. It is one of the most scenic short rail journeys in Britain. There is also a park and ride car park at Lelant Saltings. In town, the larger car parks are at Trenwith, above the centre, and near Porthminster Beach and the Island. Check prices and seasonal arrangements before you travel.
The harbour
St Ives harbour is the heart of the town. At low tide boats sit on the sand, and at high tide the water laps the harbour walls. Smeaton's Pier, built in the 18th century, has a small chapel and lighthouse at its landward end. Boat trips leave from the harbour in season, including trips to see seals at Seal Island. Be warned: the gulls here are bold and will snatch food from your hand, so eat with care.
Beaches
St Ives has several beaches within walking distance of each other. Porthminster, to the south of the harbour, is a long, sheltered sweep of sand. Porthmeor, on the north side of town, faces the Atlantic and is the place for surfing. Porthgwidden is a small, sheltered cove tucked beside the Island, and the harbour beach is popular with families. Lifeguard cover is seasonal, so check before you swim, and look out for dog restrictions in summer.
Art in St Ives
Artists have been coming to St Ives since the late 19th century, and in the mid-20th century it became a centre of British modern art, home to figures such as Barbara Hepworth, Ben Nicholson and the self-taught painter Alfred Wallis. Tate St Ives, overlooking Porthmeor Beach, shows modern and contemporary art, and the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden preserves her studio and garden much as she left them. The town also has dozens of independent galleries and studios to browse.
The Island and the coast path
The Island, a grassy headland between Porthmeor and Porthgwidden, is topped by the little chapel of St Nicholas and makes a great viewpoint, especially at sunset. From St Ives, the coast path heads west towards Zennor through wild, rocky scenery. It is a tough but beautiful walk of around six miles, with bus connections to bring you back. Check timetables before you set off.
Food and drink
St Ives has plenty of places to eat, from pasty shops and fish and chips to cafés and restaurants serving local seafood. Many are tucked away in the lanes behind the harbour, known as Downalong. In summer, booking ahead for dinner is a good idea.
When to go
St Ives is very busy in July and August. Spring, early summer and September are quieter, and still warm enough for the beach. The September Festival, an arts and music festival, has been a fixture for many years. Check the dates if you are planning a visit around it.
Good to know
- The town is hilly and the lanes are steep and cobbled. Wear comfortable shoes.
- Avoid driving into the old town. Use the park and ride or the outer car parks.
- Keep food covered around the harbour to avoid the gulls.
- Combine St Ives with a trip along the coast to Zennor, or a day at the beaches of Carbis Bay and Hayle Towans.
Photos: St Ives harbour by ArildV, CC BY-SA 4.0; St Ives by ArildV, CC BY-SA 4.0; via Wikimedia Commons.
