No trip to Cornwall is complete without a pasty. This humble pastry parcel, filled with beef and vegetables, is one of the most famous foods in Britain and a proud symbol of Cornish identity. Here is a short guide to its history, what makes a real Cornish pasty, and how to eat one like a local.
A short history
Pasties have been eaten in England for centuries, and versions appear in medieval recipe books. But the pasty became closely tied to Cornwall in the 18th and 19th centuries, when it was the everyday meal of miners, farm workers and fishermen. Wrapped in pastry, a filling meal could be carried down a mine or out into the fields and eaten by hand, still warm if wrapped well.
The famous crimped edge is often said to have served as a handle, so that miners with dirty hands, possibly contaminated with arsenic, could hold the pasty by the crust and throw that part away. Historians debate how true this is, but it is a story every Cornish person knows. Some families are said to have marked their initials on the end of the pasty so that everyone got the right one.
When Cornish miners emigrated in the 19th century, they took pasties with them, and you can still find pasty shops in former mining areas from Mexico to South Australia.
What makes a Cornish pasty?
Since 2011, the Cornish pasty has had Protected Geographical Indication status, the same kind of protection as Champagne or Parma ham. To be sold as a Cornish pasty, it must be made in Cornwall, and follow a traditional recipe. The filling is roughly diced or minced beef, potato, swede and onion, with a light seasoning of salt and pepper. The pastry is crimped on one side, not on top, and the filling goes in raw and is slowly baked inside the pastry.
In Cornwall, swede is often called turnip, so don't be confused if a local talks about "turnip" in a pasty. You will find plenty of other fillings, from cheese and onion to vegetarian and vegan versions, but strictly speaking only the traditional recipe can carry the Cornish pasty name.
Where to buy one
Almost every town and village in Cornwall has a bakery selling pasties, from family-run shops to well-known chains. Everyone has a favourite, and locals will happily argue about who makes the best. The best advice is to try a few. A freshly baked pasty, still warm, from an independent bakery is hard to beat.
How to eat a pasty
Traditionally, a pasty is eaten by hand, held in its paper bag or by the crimp, starting at one end and working towards the other. Be careful with the first bite, as the filling stays very hot. Ketchup and brown sauce are a matter of personal taste and of some controversy, so you may get funny looks. On the beach, keep an eye on the gulls: they love pasties as much as people do.
Make your own
If you want to make one at home, the basics are simple: a sturdy shortcrust pastry, beef skirt, potato, swede and onion, all sliced thinly or diced and seasoned well. Layer the filling raw on the pastry, fold it over, crimp the edge, and bake slowly. Practice makes perfect, especially with the crimp.
Good to know
- The World Pasty Championships have been held at the Eden Project in past years, with categories for professionals and amateurs. Check whether the event is running if you would like to attend.
- Many bakeries sell out by mid-afternoon, so buy your pasty earlier in the day.
- Pasties travel well. Many bakeries will post them, or sell part-baked ones to take home.
Photos: A Cornish pasty by David Johnson, CC BY-SA 3.0; A pasty cut open by David Johnson, CC BY-SA 3.0; via Wikimedia Commons.
